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16. Ibid., 36.
17. Ibid., 45.
18. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.
19. Ibid., 97.
20. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.
21. Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion, 251.
22. Ibid., 291.
23. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 130.
24. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 64.
25. Ibid., 69.
26. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 184–186.
27. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 15.
28. Anne Stegemeyer, Who’s Who in Fashion, 2nd ed. (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988), 5.
29. Ibid., 32.
30. “Carmen Says: A Couture Veteran Discusses the Way Things Were, Are, and May Never Be Again,” Garmento, Issue 1 (2010), 45.
31. GeoffreyBeane.com.
32. Jane Eastoe and Sarah Gristwood, Fabulous Frocks (London: Pavilion, 2008), 6–7.
33. Judith Watt, ed., The Penguin Book of Twentieth-Century Fashion Writing (New York: Viking, 1999), 175.
34. Arnold Scaasi, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!) (New York: Scribner, 2004), 111–112.
35. Caroline Evans, Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2003), 71.
36. Urmee Khan, “Liz Hurley ‘Safety Pin’ Dress Voted the Greatest Dress,” The Telegraph (October 9, 2008), www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/LizHurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html.
37. Georgina O’Hara, The Encyclopedia of Fashion (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1986), 32.
5. Capri Pants and Shorts:
The Plague on Our Nation
1. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 45.
2. Ibid., 46.
3. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” In Berg Encyclopedia, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.
5. Ibid., 121.
6. Skirts: Mini, Midi, Maxi, and More
1. Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest (London: V&A Publishing, 2009), 36.
2. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 37.
3. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until ToDay (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 49–50, 55.
4. Myra Walker, “Miniskirt,” in A – Z of Fashion.
5. Ibid.
6. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 908–909.
7. Ralph Graves, ed., “The Midi Muscles In,” Life, August 21, 1970.
8. Valerie Steele, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, vol. 2 (Farmington Hills, MI: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005), 9.
9. Andrew Bolton, Bravehearts: Men in Skirts (London: V&A Publications, 2003), 26–27.
7. Belts: Friend to Soldiers and Vixens
1. www.iceman.it.
2. James Laver, Costume (New York: Hawthorn Books, 1964), 2.
3. Ibid.
4. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 11.
5. Berg Fashion Library, image of embroidered canvas suspenders, 1840.
8. Dress Shirts: Prudery and Puffery
1. Ester Juhasz, “Jewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 5, Central and Southwest Asia.
2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.
3. Ibid., 76 (image).
4. Ibid., 79.
5. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 15.
6. Ibid., 16–17.
9. Ties and Scarves: Color Me Beautiful, Herm`es, and Other Cults
1. Jean-Louis Dumas-Herm`es, How to Wear Your Herm`es Scarf (Paris: Editions Herm`es, 1986), 1.
2. Nadine Coleno, The Herm`es Scarf: History and Mystique (London: Thames & Hudson, 2009), 29.
3. Andrew Baseman, ed., The Scarf (New York: Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1989), 50.
4. Coleno, The Herm`es Scarf, 18.
5. Baseman, The Scarf, 50.
6. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 198.
7. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 22.
8. Simon Doonan, “Bring Back Nancy Red!” The New York Observer, January 8, 2001, www.observer.com/2001/01/bring-back-nancy-red/.
9. Nina Lalli, “Checkered Past: Arafat’s Trademark Scarf Is Now Military Chic,” Village Voice, February 15, 2005, www.villagevoice.com/2005–02–15/nyc-life/checkered-past/.
10. Anna K"onig, “Neckties and Neckwear,” in A – Z of Fashion.
11. Ibid.
12. Avril Hart, Ties (New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1998), 68.
13. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 9.
10. Vests: Take That, France!
1. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 54.
2. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 218.