Библия моды

Кэлхун Эйда

За профессиональную помощь и за то, что вы такие замечательные: Питеру Стейнбергу, Марше Тонкинс и Джонатану Суодену. За то, что превратили процесс издания в радость: всем в «Гэллери Букс», включая Луиз Берк; Йену Бергстрому; Йену Робинсону; Джин Энн Роуз; Алексу Льюису; Лизе Литуок; Крису Серджио; Джейме Путорти; Крису Тобиассену; и в особенности нашему великолепному редактору Тришну Бочковскому; а также Грегу Кирмсеру за безупречный поиск фотоматериалов. За интенсивный курс по истории моды: всем в Нью-Йоркской публичной библиотеке, в особенности Клейтону Киркингу и Джею Барксдейлу. В Вертхаймском зале библиотеки было очень приятно работать, даже когда на меня шикали за то, что шептался. Особую

благодарность я хочу выразить всем специалистам по части моды и авторам, с которыми мы советовались лично или чьи работы читали.

Иллюстрации

Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun (1779)/Palace of Versailles; Apeda Studio, NYPL, isadora_0011vb; Everett Collection; PP238.11.007, courtesy of the Maryland Historical Society; Everett Collection; Mary Evans/National Magazine Company/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Michael Cali/Rex Features/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Eliot Elisofon/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images; Everett Collection; © Universal/Everett Collection; Jason Smith/Everett Collection; Matthew Diffee/The New Yorker/Conde Nast; Frank Micelotta/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Walker Evans/E verett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Bain Collection, Library of Congress; “Grandma + My Dad” © sflovestory/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Albert Edwin Roberts, Queensland Museum; Everett Collection; © Miramax/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/Peter & Dawn Cope Collection/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Gift of Diana S. Field; JACQUES DEMARTHON/AFP/Getty Images; Mary Evans/National Magazines/Everett Collection; Mirrowpix/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Mary Evans/National Magazines/Everett Collection; David Longendyke/Everett Collection; Tim Boxer/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; CSU Archives/Everett Collection. Mirek Towski/DMI/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images; © 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Gianni Dagli Orti/The Art Archive at Art Resource; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; AISA/Everett Collection; Marcus Gheeraerts, National Portrait Gallery; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; (внизу) Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Royal Collection, Belgium; Prints & Photographs Division, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62–72813; Images of Empire/Universal Images Group via Getty Images; The National Archives; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Gift of Mrs. Emmet Whitlock; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Diana S. Field; The Philadelphia Museum of Art/Art Resourceс. Everett Collection; Richard Young/Rex USA/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © Aaron Spelling Prod./Everett Collection; © Paramount/Everett Collection; Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic/Getty Images; Everett Collection; (вверху) Curt Gunther/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; (внизу) Mirrorpix/Everett Collection; Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; Mirrorpix/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Josiah Wedgwood and Sons Ltd., 18th century/Indianapolis Museum of Art; Horatio Hale, Musee de Seminaire, Quebec; Uranometria (1661), Courtesy of the United States Naval Observatory Library; Superstock/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Dee Cercone/Everett Collection; Jean-Marc Nattier, Former Crown Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos; Higgins Armory Museum; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Superstock/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Salome Receives the Head of John the Baptist by Caravaggio, National Gallery, London; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Jeff Vespa/WireImage/Getty Images; Print by Robert Dighton, 1805; Mary Evans/APL/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; CSU Archives/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection;

© Universal Television/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/APL/Everett Collection; Liu Weibing/© Xinhua/Photoshot/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © Illustrated London News Ltd/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; David Jackson, V&A Museum; © Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Jean-Etienne Liotard, Musee d’Art et d’Histoire; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; S Gaboury/DMI/Rex Features/Everett Collection; BATA Shoe Museum; manuscript of Renaud de Montauban, 15th century; Museum fur Angewandte Kunst; “Flip-Flops Between Baltimore and Washington” © 2006 Betsy/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Everett Collection; “Spanish Oldtimers” © 2006 David/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; “A Guy on a Bike Wearing Spandex” © 2009 Ed Yourdon/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Everett Collection; Maximillion/Everett Collection; Harper’s magazine, 1858; Everett Collection; Bain Collection, Library of Congress, LC-B2-2801–11; Everett Collection; Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/Amblin/Univeral/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; © 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; Bertram von Minden/Buxtehude Altar, 1400–1410; Robert Doisneau/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images; Fox Photos/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Everett Collection; David Fenton/Archive Photos/Getty Images; Everett Collection; © Carsey-Werner/Everett Collection; Stephen Boitano/Everett Collection; Roger Sargent/Rex Features/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh (1554–1618) 1588 (oil on panel), English school (16th century)/private collection/The Bridgeman Art Library; Richard Young/Rex USA/Everett Collection; John Pellino, U.S. Army; Rex USA/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Photoshot/Everett Collection; Gregorio T. Binuya/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Brian Rasic/Rex USA/Everett Collection; U.S. Federal Government; David F. Barry, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62–21207; Everett Collection; Charles L. Johnson, Queen of Fashion Waltzes. Kansas City, MO: Johnson Pub. Co., 1911; Fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Palazzo Pubblico; John Oxley Library, State Library of Queensland; CSU Archives/Everett Collection; U.S. Federal Government; © Universal Pictures/Everett Collection; Archduke Ferdinand II by Francesco Terzio, Kunsthistorisches Museum; Howard Sochurek/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images; Monika Graff/Getty Images News/Getty Images; American Folk Art Museum; courtesy of the Ladybug Collection; Frank Masi/© Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images; Mary Evans/MGM/BRIDGE/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Joel Productions and Paramount Pictures